Before manufactured bars of soap became widely available in the U.S. in the late 19th century (much earlier in France), soapmaking was a routine household chore accomplished with the collection of rainwater, ashes from the hearth and tallow, or rendered animal fat.
When combined, these ingredients create a chemical reaction called “saponification,” which breaks the fat down into free fatty acids that combine with the alkaline solution (lye) resulting from the leaching of rainwater through wood ash.
Although a gratifying art form, this hot process method of soapmaking is a bit tricky, time consuming, requires specialized equipment, very precise measurements and a good deal of safety precautions in terms of handling liquid lye (think drain cleaner).
Below you will find recipes utilize the cold process made easier by the melt-and-pour method starting with a glycerin soap base (either purchased or made from melted, clear glycerin soap bars). You still “cook” the soap mixture to create a finished product, but you’ll have beautiful soaps ready in hours instead of waiting weeks for them to cure.
If you wish to add color (and extra fragrance!) to your soaps, don’t use food coloring . Instead, use powdered herbs and spices like: annatto cinnamon, paprika, sage, etc.
Saponification occurs because lye creates heat, which allows water molecules and fatty acids to bond together. Melt-and-pour soap has already gone through this process, so there’s no need to add additional oils to your soaps or the quality of the soap may be adversely affected. Similarly, the oils or butters included in the melt-and-pour soap base will determine the character of the soap in terms of hardness, lather, etc.
Oleic Acid — Conditions skin. Fats high in oleic acid include cocoa butter, shea butter, avocado oil and sweet almond oil.
Stearic acid — Promotes lather and hardness. Shea and mango butters provide high levels of this acid.
Linoleic Acid — Soothes and moisturizes skin. Concentrated in apricot kernel oil and hemp seed oil.
Lauric Acid — Contributes to lather and hardness. Coconut oil (solid) is an excellent source.
Essential oils not only lend fragrance and a certain energy to your soaps, but they also contribute antimicrobial properties. Tea tree essential oil, for example, is highly antifungal and smells earthy, while lavender essential oil is antibacterial and provides floral notes.
You may prefer to use a single scent like orange or lemon, or express your inner perfumer by combining oils to create custom scents. There are lots of great books on aromatherapy that can guide you. Alternatively, experiment with different combinations of oils by adding a few drops to a small container of witch hazel extract and giving it the sniff test. When you hit on a combination that pleases you, don’t forget to write down which oils were used and how much!
Energizing: Basil, Lemongrass, Eucalyptus Calming: Lavender, Rose, Vanilla Refreshing: Rosemary, Peppermint, Sweet Orange Balancing: Sandalwood, Patchouli, Vertiver
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