Making Simple Syrups

Simple syrup is a liquid sweetener obtained by boiling sugar and water together until reduced into a thick solution with the consistency of…well, syrup. The viscosity occurs when heat causes the hydroxyl groups in the sugar to break down in a chemical process called hydrolysis. Setting chemistry aside, the “simple” aspect of the concoction stems from its ease of preparation and the ease in which it blends with cold beverages and, most notably, in cocktails. In fact, simple syrup is a staple that resides next to bitters and sliced fruit in the well-stocked bar.

But simple syrup isn’t limited to lip-smacking things served in a glass. It can be used in place of the liquid in pie filling and cake batter, drizzled over ice cream, stirred into coffee or tea, or used to glaze pound cakes and other baked goods to keep them moist. It can also be used in sorbets, cold soups and to make candied fruits. Infused with certain herbs and spices, simple syrup also has a place in the home apothecary. You could dash out to the store to buy the common variety, but it’s much more satisfying, economical and flavorful to make your own.

the famous henry ramos

Herbal honey, syrups and oxymels have been consumed for centuries, but one man is credited with devising the first cocktail using simple syrup which, although it contained a healthy dose of gin, was intended to be a breakfast eye-opener. The accuracy of this legacy, however, has come into question and there are varying accounts of the alleged events in circulation, but the basic story goes that a barkeep at the famous Meyer's Restaurant in New Orleans invented simple syrup to create his signature cocktail, the “Ramos Gin Fizz” in the late 1800s. In October of 1928, Time Magazine honored the passing of Henry Charles ("Carl") Ramos and printed the recipe for his namesake libation, the success of which relied on Old Tom gin (a sweet variety of gin) and a few drops of orange flower water.

Another version of this recipe later appeared in The Ideal Bartender originally published in 1917 and again in 2008 (CreateSpace Independent Publishing) and in 2015 (Cocktail Kingdom). This recipe owes its distinction to adding pony milk to the ingredients, and to the fact that it was included in a bartender’s manual penned by Tom Bullock, the first African American bartender to publish a book of cocktail recipes. Serving the patrons of the St. Louis Country Club for many years, Tom became a confidant of many prominent figures of the time, including a few political heavyweights. In fact, George Herbert Walker, grandfather of George W. Bush, so admired Tom’s creative skill behind the bar that he wrote the introduction to his book.

simple kicked up a notch

Basic simple syrup is made using a 1:1 ratio of sugar to water. This is the syrup most commonly used in American cocktails. In Europe, the standard formula elevated to increase sweetness by using a 2:1 ratio of sugar to water. In addition, a raw cane sugar known demerara or turbinado sugar is used. While Europeans call this simple syrup, Americans, cleverly enough, refer to it as “rich, simple syrup.” Indeed, it is sweeter and richer, with a slight molasses-like flavor. However, be aware that unrefined sugar will also impart a brownish hue and may affect the appearance of your concoction, especially if it’s based on a light alcohol like gin or vodka.

Another simple syrup frequently used in mixed drinks is gomme (French for “gum”). Gomme syrup is also a 2:1 ratio formula and includes a bit of gum Arabic, an aromatic resinous substance obtained from the sap of Acacia nilotica, a sub-Saharan species of tree. The addition of this material prevents the crystallization of sugar and acts as an emulsifier, resulting in a smooth, silky texture. First introduced in the 1862 classic The Bartender’s Guide by Jerry Thomas, who is considered the father of American mixology, gomme sirup, or gum syrup, became quite popular in Japanese coffeehouses as a sweetener for hot and cold coffees but is only recently finding its way to those in Europe and the US.

herbal syrups

There may be times when you want to prepare a syrup not intended for cocktail hour, but to stand ready in the pantry during times of stress or when changing seasons challenge our well-being. In this case, the first step is to prepare a decoction, a strong infusion of herbal material simmered in water, while partially covered, until the volume of liquid is reduced by half. The mixture is then removed from the heat and allowed to steep, while covered, for at least 30 minutes (and up to a few hours). The decoction is then strained and the remaining liquid is brought a boil with sugar (or raw honey) until thickened. The typical ratio is 2:1 (2 parts decoction to 1 part honey/sugar). However, if you find this to be too sweet, decrease the ratio to 1:1.

A wide variety of herbs await your experimentation in making simple syrups! Some of the best for the apothecary are elderberry, elder flower, ginger, Schisandra berry, thyme, peppermint, echinacea root, hops, and marshmallow root, alone or in any combination that suits the syrup’s specific purpose or your palate. The addition of a small amount of vodka or brandy to a finished herbal syrup helps to preserve the mixture and make it go down easier. You’ll want to omit this step, of course, if you’re preparing a syrup for children. Speaking of which...some of the best botanicals for children include lemon balm, linden flower, marshmallow root, elderberry, Schisandra berry and wild cherry bark. When not taken by spoon, a thoughtfully crafted herbal syrup can be made more appealing by drizzling it over ice cream, brownies, pancakes or biscuits, or stirred into hot cereal, yogurt or tea.

final thoughts

Generally speaking, a simple syrup stored in the refrigerator will last up to one month, and a rich, simple syrup (the 2:1 ratio version) will last up to six months. This is because, believe it or not, sugar acts as a preservative in syrup just as it does in jams, jellies and other canned products collectively called preserves. Also note that there are some cocktail enthusiasts that advocate for making simple syrups using the cold method, meaning that the sugar-water solution is allowed to sit at room temperature in a container that can be shaken or stirred easily for about 20-30 minutes to form syrup. The only real advantage of doing this is to prevent the sucrose in the solution from breaking down into glucose and fructose as it does when heated. But this reduces brix (the degree of sweetness), and without using heat there is a greater risk of fermentation (mold) developing prematurely. Stick to the stovetop method.

There are a few different ways to naturally extend the shelf life of your syrups. As previously mentioned, working with a 2:1 ratio of sugar to water or decoction to create a rich, simple syrup will make the final product last twice as long as one made using a 1:1 ratio. In other words, the more water, the faster the syrup is likely to spoil. Also as previously mentioned, a teaspoon of vodka, gin, brandy or an herbal extract, which is alcohol-based, can be added before bottling the syrup. Finally, you can speed up hydrolysis during the simmering time by adding a squirt of fresh lemon juice or a pinch of cream of tartar and increase the heating time to 15-20 minutes. This last technique is a great alternative to preserve syrups without alcohol in consideration of children or people who cannot tolerate alcohol.